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Dior, Lancome, Botter at Paris Fashion Week

Dior, Lancome, Botter at Paris Fashion Week

Newslooks- PARIS (AP)

Paris is the center of the global luxury industry this week with Tuesday marking the first major day of ready-to-wear shows. Powerhouses Saint Laurent and Dior are among some 107 brands showcasing spring-summer 2023 collections at Paris Fashion Week. Here are some highlights so far:

The Saint Laurent Rive Droite store
The Saint Laurent Rive Droite store in Paris. Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Courrèges Fall 2022.
Courrèges Fall 2022. Photo: Imaxtree

DIOR’S NOSTALGIC PALACE

A model wears a creation for the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Guests including Nathalie Portman, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Rosamund Pike and Emma Raducanu looked curiously at a decaying palace recreated inside an annex of the Tuileries Gardens. Vines crept through Renaissance doors, over fading wooden cornices and down weathered columns to evoke the mystery of bygone times.

A model wears a creation for the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)
A model wears a creation for the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Based loosely on the Dior headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, the set was also inspired by Catherine of Medicis, the Renaissance queen who moved to the Tuileries in the 16th century. She had the famed gardens and a palace built on the site that has since been razed. Catherine also brought heels, corsets and Italian Burano lace to the French court — picked up by Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in this thoughtful show of 84 looks, heavy on black and white.

Dancers perform during the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Writhing dancers performed alongside ribbed corsets, high Renaissance waists and lashings of lace encircling the dusty palatial runway.

Valeria Bruni Tedeschi poses before the Dior ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Despite contemporary features such as sheeny fabrics and utilitarian toggles, Chiuri’s aesthetic rarely strayed from the history books. It made for Dior’s strongest show in seasons.

Dancers perform during the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Heavy (15)80’s Renaissance ruches and ruffles ran down one skirt that was topped by a black “chainmail” vest that could have been worn at the YMCA in the (19)80’s. A little black dress was gloriously anachronistic with a skirt that ballooned out like the top of a full skirt, but reined in with sporty toggles.

A model wears a creation for the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

BOTTER’S STOMPING SNEAKERS

A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Sartorial met the aquatic on Tuesday at Botter’s co-ed show of crisp lapels, boxy jackets and poetical cutaways. They graced brightly colored suits.

Fashion designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, left, acknowledge applause after the presentation of Botter ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection, Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)
A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Statement stomping sneakers — again, in vivid colors — provided contrasts with trendy suit-ware sometimes sporting marbled lines to evoke sea creatures’ tentacles.

A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)
A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Distressed double denim continued the underwater vibe on one male model who plodded down the runway with a blue knitted mask over his entire face, and transparent globules over his hands. It made him look as if he had been attacked by a jellyfish. Or Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s show may have been another dig at the coronavirus pandemic.

A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)
A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

VAQUERA BRINGS STARS AND STRIPES TO PARIS

A flash of American funk graced Paris for Monday’s installment of fashion week — a day reserved for up-and-comers. Vaquera, who came to prominence five years ago in New York with a U.S. flag gown with massive train, moved this season across the pond and was a highlight.

Designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee mixed their edgy styles with looks that moved in a more commercial direction for spring-summer. Distressed denim, the punk exuberance and corsetry of Vivienne Westwood’s heyday and lashings of Americana references — like a loose sheeny biker jacket — defined the often-saleable 31-look display.

A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

The U.S. flag made its runway return, here as a sheer shawl that led down to a fabulous ballooning parachute skirt.

A model wears a creation for Botter for the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Tuesday, Sept. 27, 2022 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

LANCOME’S LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL

The first major party of the season celebrated one of Paris’ most iconic perfume and cosmetic brands: Lancome. A stone staircase dappled in colored light led VIP guests including model Noemie Lenoir into the palatial Petit Palais venue by the banks of the Seine River Monday night.

Out there: Millie Mackintosh looked a picture in Paris on Monday evening wearing a pink feather mini dress for Lancome's La Vie Est Belle event for Paris Fashion Week
Out there: Millie Mackintosh looked a picture in Paris on Monday evening wearing a pink feather mini dress for Lancome’s La Vie Est Belle event for Paris Fashion Week

This season Lancome, owned by L’Oreal, celebrated the 10th anniversary of its best-selling French perfume “La Vie Est Belle” — or “life is beautiful.” Victoria’s Secret model Sara Sampaio also made the party in the famous art museum in a black mini with frills.

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